Thursday, December 27, 2012

Walt Disney World

Over the past few years I have made a few trips to Disney World.  Enough that Carrie and I decided to get annual passes.
We have stayed on and off property, and can offer up at least some advice that will hopefully make your trip a little more pleasant.

Getting there:
If Flying in-
Orlando airport is rather large, and has a strange system for pick up / drop off - meaning there are multiple levels - not just ticketing and baggage that many of us are used to.  So pay attention to the signs, or being lost and confused will ensue.
If staying at a Disney hotel ( not the hilton that is "on property" but rather the disney hotels, IE Contemporary, Polynesian, Riverside, etc. AND flying into orlando, disney offers "Magic Express" pickup from the airport.  It is pretty sweet, they grab your bags and take them to your room from baggage claim and all.  Straight to your hotel, and for free.  You need to set this up in advance ( at time of hotel reservation, or at least 2 weeks prior to trip) and a packet will show up in the mail, complete with tags for baggage and instructions on where to go at airport.
Even if you are plan on moving around town, I dont think you need to rent a car, unless you are really planning to bounce around a lot or just want the freedom.  You can cab it from Disney to Universal for about $45 bucks each way.  Seaworld is probably closer to $25 each way.  Some Hotels, such as the Hilton, Waldorf, and Bonnett Creek ( hotels on property but not owned by disney) all charge for parking each day.
So make a choice, also remember you have to pay for parking at parks ( last I checked $14 a day at Disney) so it adds up.  Having a car is not just the price of rental, is parking too.
There are cabs and shared ride cabs ( the big vans that make 4-5 stops but are cheaper than cabs) that are also available.  Of course rental cars are available, and unless around the holidays, usually plentiful.
If driving, be advised that Disney World is about 20 miles southwest of Downtown Orlando.  I-4 has a number of exits for Disney World and are well marked, and the Turnpike has an Exit and dedicated tollroad to the parks ( Osceola Parkway) that will get you there for abour $2.50 and 15 minutes after exiting.
Be advised, the Turnpike, 417 ( greenway),  408 ( east west) and 528 (beachline), and Osceola Parkway are all tollroads.  Many of the exits and tollbooths are now cashless, meaning you'll probably want to opt for the toll by plate option or sunpass (automated toll pass) if you rent a car.  There are scheduled buses that you can buy tickets on that will take you over to busch gardens in tampa daily, or to kennedy space center on the other coast.  You can do it without a car, just make sure store within walking distance to hotel and that you have a shuttle to parks, at very least. 
If driving in, you have a car, so be mindful of parking charges, at hotel, at parks, tolls, etc.  Try to find a hotel with free parking and try to pay for parking at one park, and return at end of night as opposed to paying multiple parking fees.  Just make sure you can get back there, as buses to parks usually stop an hour or so after said park closes.

Getting around once there:

If staying at a Disney hotel, they have buses / monorail to the parks, depending on your hotel.  The Contemporary ( including new bay lake tower), Polynesian, Grand Floridian are all on the monorail line and have stops that will take you directly to the Magic Kingdom, and to the ticket and transportation center where you can transfer to Epcot.  The monorail does not go to Animal Kingdom, MGM ( Now called Hollywood Studios), the water parks ( Blizzard Beach and Typhoon Lagoon) or Downtown Disney.
The Monorail hotels are super convenient, and they price them that way.  Usually they go for $300-$400 a night ( other value resorts - All Star Music, Sports, and Movies can be had for around $90 if you get a good deal).  The rest of the hotels, are somewhere in between.
Disney does have an extensive and pretty awesome bus system that can take you to about anywhere you might want to go, without transferring in most instances.  That means the buses are point to point.  It has one destination emblazoned across the front and that is the destination.  This makes it pretty easy to figure out.
The Bus stops are pretty easy to find, some of the more sprawled out hotels, such as the Port Orleans Riverside have multiple stops so that no guest is too far from the bus.
All the Disney hotels have free parking and the transportation, be it water taxi, bus or monorail, are free.
Hold on - water taxi - where is that??
The Boardwalk Hotels outside Epcot, as well as the Semi Associated Swan and Dolphin ( also near Epcot) have free water taxi's to MGM and Epcot, in addition to the buses or the short stroll into Epcot through your very own back entrance.  A pretty cool option if planning to spend some time at Epcot.
Otherwise - drive to the park and pay $14 at each park to park your car if you decided to rent and stay off property or at a non Disney hotel.

Even if you stay at one of the on property guys mentioned above ( hilton waldorf, etc. they have shuttles to the parks, or you can walk over to downtown disney (a merchandise and restaurant area on the east side of the resort, also home to pleasure island) and take one of the disney buses from there if you opted for one of those hotels.
Many of the hotels in the area have shuttles, the rub is that there are TONS of guests at the hotels, and usually they only make 2-3 runs to the parks a day.  So in some instances you need to sign up/ and be at the pickup location when it comes.  This might be at 8 pm even if the park closes at 11pm.  Rarely I have seen them run continuously like an airport type shuttle. 

Where to Stay
There are a lot of benefits to staying at one of the disney world hotels, not only free hotel parking, free and regular transportation to the parks, and extra magic hours.  Extra Magic hours are a perk that the mouse gives you for staying at a disney resort.  Simply stated they are hours that the parks are only open to folks with room keys at disney hotels.  Usually an hour early of a few hours later than what the "general public" can get in.  So if you do decide to stay at a disney property - make sure you check into where and when the extra magic hours are, so you dont miss out.  The lines are way shorter than normal and its cool to be in the parks when they are a little less crowded.  The Lake Buena Vista Hilton is the only "not on property" hotel that gets the extra magic hours ( the swan and dolphin get emh as well as they are considered fringe disney hotels).
That said we stay off property a lot.  Just due to the shear savings you can find with all the hotels in the area.  Even as far away as International Drive, a nice Courtyard by Marriott or Hampton Inn can be had for $70 a night, and free parking at night.  Hampton Inn, Fairfield Inn, Homewood Suites and Embassy Suites all provide free breakfast too, some better than others, but if with a big group or family, this might save considerable dough.  Many also have microwaves and mini-fridges, which can hold water, snacks, pop, juice that will help control some costs.  I have found that you'll probably pay $15-20 more to be close to the parks a night.  Seaworld is also extremely close to Walt Disney World and has a number of nice hotels and resort properties that are a 5-7 mile drive to the parks.  We stay over there a lot, as they are a little newer and often $10-20 less expensive a night.
My Tip: look out near the convention center, sea world, or even universal studios, there are so many rooms in those areas that you should find some decent deals on hotel rooms.
Now beware of the Irlo Bronson area.  It was mostly built back in the 70's and has some really bad hotels.  For as little as $35 a night they advertise.  The reviews on these places vary, but take a look on trip advisor or yelp before plunging in.  Dont ruin your vacation in the hopes of saving $100 total at a hotel that might not be up to par.  ( I have done and learned the hard way that it isnt always a savings).  That said it is there and pretty cheap, I am sure there are some gem's out there if you do the research.
Personally I have stayed on Palm Parkway,  Hotel Plaza Blvd, and Vineland ( all near downtown disney area and off of the Apopka Vineland Exit 68 off I-4).  Also the Seaworld area, as mentioned above.
The Hampton Inn, Homewood Suites, Courtyard, Fairfield, Hilton, Embassy Suites, Residence Inn and Double Tree I have stayed at and was pretty happy with all of them.  The hotels on Vineland, over by Seaworld, and Palm Parkway have free parking, while the Hotel Plaza Blvd places, ( because they are inside the disney walls ) charge to park.
Some hotels near the convention center, namely the Hilton, Peabody, and Rosen also charge to park.  Usually this is listed on the hotel website, but not always disclosed by sites like hotwire or expedia I have found.  Make sure you take a peek at the "resort fees" and or "parking fees" on the booking sites.  The hilton for instance, charges $14 to park the car, and another $22 resort fee... That might make that deal you thought you had not so nice.
The Hampton Inns up International Drive have always treated me well, as have the Fairfields and Hilton Garden Inns ( though the HGI on Palm Parkway is not one I would recommend).  I have found some good deals up by universal at the Hampton, the Doubletree ( although this one charges for parking it is a great hotel) and the Hyatt Place.It is a bit of a drive to disney world from here, but if you have a car and are also maybe planning to visit Universal or Islands of Adventure, may be worth it if can uncover some decent savings and have a car.

A Brief Background
Disney world is made up of 4 theme parks ( Magic Kingdom, Animal Kingdom, MGM Studios, and Epcot Center.  There are also 2 water parks, multiple real and mini golf courses, and Downtown Disney.
Downtown Disney is Free to Park and to gain access too.  It is mostly comprised of restaurants and shops.  there is also some nightlife here in the evenings, although it is rather "Disneyfied."
The Ticket and Transportation Center is where you will park if you drive to the Magic Kingdom. It is where you can buy tickets, (though I'd recommend you do this at downtown disney or even your disney hotel to save time) and have to decide to take the monorail, or ferry boat across the lagoon to the park.



So with as many choices as there are with places to stay, once you have that figured out, it is all down hill.

Places to eat.

In recent years they have introduced a thing called “Disney Dining Plan” – the basic premise is that for a flat fee per day – you can eat at places and use a “credit” for them.  I know this is wildly popular – but I really had to work to make it work for me monetarily, and by that – I had to set up reservations months ahead of time at expensive places to eat – and that wound up being what the whole weekend was about, being at this restaurant by this time, and so on.  It is a cool idea, but most of the nice and cool places to eat are booked up weeks and sometimes even months out.  This means you use a credit that could have been used at a nice restaurant at a quick serve place to get a burger, and it just doesn’t make sense. 
Now if you are a foodie, and that is the reason for the trip – and have the time to make it work, then it might be a cool deal, but they make it really hard to come out ahead, though it can be done.
Places that have mickey and other characters around for meals are the first to book up, along with the really nice places.
There are restaurants in the parks, at downtown Disney, and also at the resort hotels.  A couple of our favorites are Chef Mickeys at Contemporary resort, Hollywood and Vine at MGM, 50’s diner and sci-fi diner both at MGM – though sans characters, they are just cool places to eat.  50’s diner is set in a 1950’s living room, with crazy waitresses, black and white TV’s, vinyl furniture and all.  Sci-fi diner is set in a “drive in” where you sit in cars and eat- just as you would at a drive in.  Both are reasonably priced, and are both air conditioned, which are awesome on an August afternoon.  Crystal Palace is a buffet at the magic kingdom where pooh and friends are running around during meals, and Cinderella’s royal table, located in Cinderella castle is also a really neat place to meet the princesses during a meal, if you are into that.  At animal kingdom Tusker house is a neat place for breakfast, as mickey, Minnie, goofy and Donald were all there. At Epcot the Garden Grill in the Land has Chip & Dale, along with Pluto and Mickey.  The breakfasts usually run around $25 a person / $17 kids, and lunch / dinner anywhere from $25-$55 adults – depending on which place and what day of the week.
The Nicer places to eat, maybe for a nice romantic dinner,  include California grill, perched atop the Contemporary Resort, and Victoria & Alberts at the Grand Floridian.   Both book up well in advance, and I think both have dress codes.   The Brown Derby at MGM was really good too, and is a little more relaxed.  Meals were top notch and no dress code.
In Epcot most of the countries in the world showcase have a sit down and counter service option.  Japan is my personal fav for sit down, as they have a hibachi option.  Canada is also raved about as the steakhouse is apparently amazing, though I have not been as of yet.  Mexico has good counter service where you can get tacos and beer.    
My advice, book a couple reservations and play the rest by ear.  You don’t want to be so regimented during the vacation that you can’t go where you want simply because you have a reservation somewhere.  If there is a character meeting you “must do” look around in advance, mickey is also at Ohana in the Polynesian, and I am sure a few others I am forgetting to mention.  He and most of the other characters can be met without a meal for pictures at the parks too, you just have to wait in line, and sometimes that can get annoyingly long.  Certain “good neighbor” hotels not under the Disney flag also have a once or twice weekly mickey breakfast, though they are about as expensive as the Disney ones from what I have found.
The quick service places aren’t half bad.  Some are actually good.  As opposed to going in and sitting down, this is more akin to a KFC set up, order, pay and pickup at the counter, then go find a seat to eat.  These options save time and money, but can get rather busy at “peak” times and even at off peak times on extremely busy days.
In Magic Kingdom; Caseys Corner has good hotdogs and cheese fries, Cosmic Rays has a top your own burger bar, with mushrooms, bacon and sautéed onions, and you can pick up a quick sandwich at the bakery on main street.  Pinocchio’s village hause in fantasy land has pizza, and chicken ptarmigan, either for about $10.  Pecos Bills in frontier land has good bbq pork sandwiches.  In Epcot, the land has a place downstairs called “Sunshine Seasons” that has a variety of good options, including salads and stirfry.  This place is one of my favorites for variety and freshness.  Though sometimes hard to find a place to sit at peak hours, these options will free up more time for rides and shows, which is really why you came in the first place, , , right?

Rides –
So first off, the extra magic hours, if you are staying in a Disney hotel, you get extra magic hours.  Look at the “Park Hours” section of the Disney website and scout out what parks have them when you are there, and plan out the days around them.  The lines are way shorter, parking is easier, and the busses are less full early am and late night.  You might be able to ride a particular ride 2-3 times, and get a fastpass for later on all before the park opens to the general public. 
Fastpasses are like tickets to save a spot in line.  General idea is that the popular rides have a “Standby” line and a “fastpass” line.  To obtain a fastpass for a ride, locate the fastpass kiosk and insert your ticket.  It will spit out your fastpass and park ticket.  On the fastpass will be a return time.  Say 1225-1:25.  You go back to the fastpass line in that hour and wait 5-10 minutes as opposed to the 60 minutes or so stated on the “standby” wait time. 
It is a great idea but generally you can only have one fastpass at a time, so it is always a good idea to try and get them early.  The two that seem to “sell out” the fastest, as they only give a limited number out for each ride a day, are Toy Story at MGM, Soarin’ at Epcot, and Enchanted tales with Belle at Magic Kingdom (when they use it).  Not kidding we have seen the fastpasses go out of stock before noon on each of them on prior trips.  So if there is a must do ride, go get the fastpass and go explore, because taking in a show or even just walking around exploring is more fun than standing in line.

Most Disney rides do their best to be kid friendly.  By that I mean that the height restrictions are lower than most parks I have been to.  That said, the Disney website lists out all the height restrictions, so do a bit of research so everyone knows what to expect. 
Nothing worse than waiting 90 minutes for space mountain just to find out junior cant ride.

Charracter greetings / parades, etc.
Just after the entrance to each park, next to the guidemaps, will be a white paper called ‘times guide” that will list out the park hours, show times, and character meet and greets around the park.  This is invaluable, not only to know who is where and when, but what areas to avoid if say you don’t want to watch a parade.  The Magic kingdom especially gets really hard to navigate the hordes of people at parade time and fireworks time.  I have don’t it numerous times and have always thought, “man this is nuts”.

If you do want a prime spot for the parade, get there early, you can sit on the curb on mainstreet, but be aware, people will be walking around you and it will get uncomfortable sooner or later.  This is the only way though to insure that some other dad wont put his kid on his shoulders in front of you as soon as the parade / fireworks start though, and I cant tell you how many times I have had that happen.

Tickets.
So Disney, as of my last trip, charged adults ( over 10 years old) $89 a day, and kids (3-9) were $83 a day.  Good news is that up till 3 they are free.  Bad news is you need a stroller.  That isn’t so bad, save for transporting it on the bus / in the parking tram.  Thus far in life I haven’t done it, but it looks like a pain in the tail.  Not to say it won’t be necessary, but it just looks like a pain.    
The tickets are for one day – one park.  They get cheaper the more days you add, a 5 day ticket would be $265, and so forth.  This gets you in to one park a day, and they make you use it within 14 days of initial park visit. 
They will sell you a non-expiration add on that will let you use 3 days now and 2 later, but it is costly, and may not be worth it in the long run.
You can also upgrade to a “park hopper” which lets you visit multiple parks on the same day, and only charges you for one day, regardless of how many parks you visit on that day.  I like the park hopper, but that is just because I like variety, and if the crowds are big at one park, you can usually bail and hit one that might be less crowded. 
Remember I said the extra magic hours were a good thing, well there is a drawback.  On the days that the extra magic hours are at a particular park, usually it is busier.  So I like to go, get the extra magic hours in, and get out of there.  I know you lose some time in transit to the other park, but I just don’t like waiting in line that much, and this seems to work for me. 
They will also sell you a waterpark option.  Now these are the mack daddy waterparks, so if that is your thing, do it, but I might suggest just buying a separate ticket and not burning one of your park days if that is really your thing. 
Tickets are available and advertised at gift shops, hotels, and even craigslist.  Sometimes they work, but you are taking a risk.  I am all for beating the system, but that mouse didn’t make all that money by giving stuff away.  So buyer beware, in this case especially.  Disney now uses a fingerprint scan for the tickets.  So if you buy a 3 day ticket, each day, upon entry you have to provide a fingerprint along with your ticket.  So buying someone elses ticket with 2 days left could work, but you’d have to make a pretty big stink.  I have tried to beat the fingerprint, by using different fingers to see if it even worked.  Unfortunately, It does. 
Also – the florida resident discount.  When you buy the ticket, they e-mail you a voucher, you then take that voucher with a florida ID to a ticket counter to get your actual ticket.  So if someone offers you a florida resident ticket and you aren’t a resident, make sure it’s a ticket and not a voucher, or probably wont work.
I hate the fact that their system is so good, but I would hate even more for you to try and save $100 on tickets just to ruin the whole vacation.  It can be done, I have made craigslist work on a few occasions, but you never know till it swipes, and I just cant recommend a good way that is foolproof. 
When spending the kind of dough it takes to do this trip with a family, I say better safe than sorry.

Tips
·         Use the fastpasses, you cant buy them like you can at universal, so once you can get another, walk to the next ride you want to do, and get another fastpass, the extra 10 minute walk might save you an hour in line later.
·         If park hopping and driving to the park, park car at ticket and transportation and take a bus, monorail or boat to other destinations, don’t move car.  #1 you will have to pay each time you park the car at a new park, $14 each time.  #2 you then have to take the parking tram from wherever in the super huge lot, ( they are among the top 10 in the world size wise) and that is just a pain, and especially with a stroller.  #3 the roads aren’t exactly self explanatory.  Although there are many signs, they usually take you a round about way which contradicts your GPS and / or common sense. 
·         Pay attention to the special events calendar.  Disney has a lot of special events weekends / weeks.  Everything from spring training to starwars, from marathons to special ticketed events that close the parks early ( mickys very merry Christmas party and not so scary Halloween party) to Gay Days.  I’m not saying plan around them, but know what you are getting into.  Star wars weekends at MGM are awesome, but really crowded.
·         Take some time to look around.  There is so much to see, topiary gardens, hidden mickeys, special shows, and most if not all are done extremely well. 
·         Watchout for the stop for no reason, the smelly, and the strollers.  Try not to lose your temper with them, though they make no sense to the rest of us, drop kicking them will get you kicked out of the park.
·         Don’t be afraid to take a break.  I bounce out of the parks mid day and take a nap sometimes.  16 straight hours is a little too much for even the most hardcore Disney fanatic, and be mindful of others in the group, just because you aren’t wiped out yet doesn’t mean they aren’t miserable. 
·         Get the phone aps.  They are useful if nothing else.  Have bathroom locations and some offer ride wait times.  Always good to know if splash mountain is a 90 minute wait before walking all the way over from space mountain just to turn around and walk back.
·         It takes about an hour to change parks.  I don’t know why, it is just that slow.  From the time you say lets leave epcot and go to MGM – it takes longer than you’d think – so figure than in when making the choice to try and catch a show / reservation.
·         More often than not, you wont be the only one with that idea.  What I mean is “lets ride the long wait lines during the parade, the lines should be longer” or “lets eat lunch at 2pm, after everyone else”  That is sound thinking, but there are plenty of smart folks out there.  Plan on having company wherever you go.  Busy days it doesn’t matter when you do what, busy is busy and there are only so many places for all those people to go.
·         Hot is hot, and the sun in Florida is more intense.  So 90 degrees happens in Alaska, I get it, but the sun is much more intense, and feels hotter here.  Mix in the humidity and the lack of ocean breeze that Miami enjoys and the summers can be downright miserable.  Make sure to mix in some AC throughout the day.  It is harder to find than you might think at a theme park.
·         A little planning goes a long way.  Figure out the 3 things you MUST do that day or at that park, and do them, then fill in with the others.  If it’s a parade / show, commit early to finding a good spot and sacrificing the half hour of waiting around.
·         Flower & Garden festival at Epcot is neat, lots of those famous topiary shrubs all around. 
·         The food and wine festival not the best time to take kids you don’t want around drunk people and / or cursing.
·         Concerts – there are numerous concerts throughout the year, mostly at epcot, by national acts.  Check out the eat to the beat and summer concert series as national acts come through and play for free, usually 3 times a day
·         Don’t be afraid to take a day off.  There are so many neat pools and stores, you can skip the parks and still have a fun time.  Some hotels have lazy rivers, and others full water parks at them.  Don’t be afraid to turn your 5 day Disney vacation into 3 days of parks, one day of pool and one day of shopping / relaxing. 
·         Try to catch the following if in town for them – my personal favorites:
o   Osbourne festival of lights at MGM – Christmas time
o   Star Wars Weekends at MGM in May / June weekends only
o   Flower / Garden Festival at Epcot (Spring)
o   Nightly show at Cinderella castle in Magic Kingdom (daily)
 







Tuesday, September 4, 2012

NYC / LA - Coast to Coast

New York City
Was only in town for a short while, and have a bunch of choices of where to fly into.  Not as many choices as LA, but it bears some consideration.  Newark ( across the bay in New Jersey ), JFK (a little larger than the others, but a little further out) or the choice we made - LaGuardia, the closest to Manhattan Island.  We hopped a cheap flight into LaGuardia on a Saturday morning and stayed over the holiday weekend.  This made traffic much more bearable. I have been during the week and it was night and day.
First off - we did the tourist stuff.  Hopped a boat and got to go out to the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island, which I found to be much more interesting than the former. I got Carrie up and out of bed early as to beat the crowds, which get BIG in the afternoon, it was much more pleasant, and noticeably cooler in the morning.  There are passes to go up in the statue of liberty, and they sell out WAY in advance, so make sure if this is on your must to list - make sure you get online and make this happen.
We also walked the Brooklyn Bridge ( there is a walkway down the middle for pedestrians and bikers, which at times can get a little hairy with the bikers speeding by, but is far less dangerous than the alternative automobile traffic.  Got some great pictures from the base of the bridge on the Brooklyn side, there is a park there and is a short walk from the end of the bridge.
Back to time square - a must see,,, everyone said skip the hotdog vendor cart, I couldn't resist - it sucked. Skip it, really, was way too expensive - and the dog was just plain bland.  If I told you 2 dogs and a pepsi and water cost me $22 - thats how bad. 
Got Pizza at John Pizzaria, just off of broadway. It is in an old church that they somehow converted to a pizza joint. If you look close you can still see some of the stained glass windows. Pizza was ok, overpriced, but then it was New York, where we found EVERYHING to be more expensive than other locales.
We wanted to hit the Carnegie Deli, but everything I read said stop at the 2nd ave deli. Now the fact that the 2nd ave deli is not on second ave made for a bit of strangeness in my mind - but we made the right decision (the original closed after the owner was killed in a robbery, the new version is run by his family). Do yourself a favor. Split a sandwich - everyone does, they are WAY to big to eat by yourself. I screwed up and got my own, corned beef, pastrami, and brisket. The pastrami part was my favorite, and I about finished all the brisket as well, the corned beef, although good, just couldn't stack up to the others. They give you the pickles and whole 9 yards, pretty cool place. Would definitely go back if ever in town again. Word to the wise -- Pay attention to the customer minimums, they do this as the savvy folks split sandwiches. They usually have a $10 or $15 minimum per person, which sounds hard to hit, but the sandwich I got turned out to be $24.00 so don't worry.
Made a trip up to The View Lounge at the Marriott Marquis ( just off broadway) on a tip from a friend.  Is akin to the signature room at Hancock in Chicago.  The bonus, this one revolves.  It offers a stunning aerial view of the city that - minus the overpriced drinks and apps, was totally worth it.  Again, we tried to get there around 430 to beat the dinner rush and was glad we did, as the place was getting rather full when we left around 545.
Central park is a lot bigger than you might have thought.  Check a map as most of the famous sights from the movies are located on the south side near 5th Ave ( the pond with the bridge, the mall with the entertainers, the horse carriage rides)  so head there to start.
Had to head over to the Ed Sullivan Theatre and the Hello Deli that had been shown so many times and was a big Letterman fan in years past.  It isnt right next door on Broadway as I had imagined, sort of off the side of the back door off 53rd.  Neither was open as it was a weekend and around 1130 at night.
We did one of the hop on / hop off tours of the city.  It included a downtown circuit, a brooklyn circuit, and a night circuit.  If memory serves we did the Grey Line.  (Bought on site as they heckle with each other as there are a bunch of people walking around with mobile ticket selling credit card machines.  Get two of these fools in close to one another and watch your price drop).  All three tours were cool and I'd recommend if in a pinch for time as driving, is a bit hairy to say the least, not to mention parking, or the lack thereof, as well as expense.  Two stops of parking could pay for the ticket.   
The morning before our departure we made a trip out to the Intrepid, as it was Fleet Week and there were a few other ships docked adjacent that we thought might be fun to catch. The Intrepid is a retired aircraft carrier- turned museum.  It has a bunch of planes on the deck to check out and take pictures with.   If I remember admission was $17 per person - and we went early before the crowds. Good stop if you have the time, I enjoyed it.  One of the retired space shuttles is now housed there at the museum, and I believe requires a separate admission ( just as the concord did while we were there).  Either way would be cool to get that close to the shuttle.
We also hit the Shake Shack on the way out back out to the airport. Was Supposed to be a great - hip burger place, it was okay - I would have rather hit the 2nd ave deli again, but maybe thats just me.  If nothing else I got to say " I went to the shake shack."
Tips and Advice:
Skip the street vendors, don't bother driving if don't have to around Manhattan during the week.  Traffic is unlike you've ever seen.  Cabs are plentiful.  To go up in the statue of liberty you need a special ticket.  Sign up early.
Hotels are expensive in Manhattan.  Plan on at least $200 a night.  The hop on hop off trolley tour is decent and can work as a "transport" to the cities many attractions ( though most all are in Manhattan) of you don't want to drive.   

Los Angeles
We spent some time in Hollywood, did the walk of fame, it is way longer than I had thought.  Must be a couple miles up one side and down the other.  The Chinese theater is the center, and there are some character folks dressed up for pictures ( we saw a few Elvis' and a tin man).  Adjacent to the theater is the Hollywood at Highland shopping center.  Was worth a stop and had a few places to get a drink and get out of the sun.  At the end of the row, near the Capitol Records Building,, the famous Roscoe's Chicken And Waffles. World Famous I was told more than once, we had to stop in.  I guess I  just don't get it. It was OK, but I just cant figure out why famous.. I got the #13 - the famous chicken and waffle platter, just kinda meh.  Had great company though which made it all that much better.
Also just an aside - there is a pretty decent contingency of Spartans in Hollywood, there is even a website, and when a football game is on, they wake up early and head over to Big Wangs wing joint.  Although 2500 miles away, we felt right at home, drinking beer and eating wings at 9 am.
Drove up the mountain to see the Hollywood sign, that is a drive now folks. Narrow Streets - crazy inclines and angles, driveways shooting out everywhere you look. Was a lot of fun to drive. At the top though we were greeted by a barbed wire fence and no trespassing signs. In my heyday that would have been no match, but alas it was in the middle of the day and there were quite a few neighbors looking on as I was formulating my plan. Luckily, Carrie spotted them and warned me, and we figured it ought to suffice to get a few pictures, as close as we could get.
Drove through Beverly hills, Rodeo Drive, Beverly Wilshire, down past the city hall, which was portrayed as the police dept in beverly hills cop.
We didn't do the famous homes bus tour, but drive around long enough and you'll be sure to find some on your own, or just get a map and follow the buses.  We found ourselves in a shoot while driving down the street.  
Apple Pan in West LA is a great burger place - served on butcher paper and all, and of course, has pretty decent apple pie. They recommended a slice with ice cream, and they were right on.
Philipe's the Original - near china town just north of downtown, has been around since 1908. They claim to have invented the french dip on premise, and who am I to argue. Whether they did or didn't, it was a pretty good iteration of the classic, and the peach pie is probably the best around. They usually run out of it early, so have to get there early to get a slice ( I only ordered as 3 or 4 people in front of me did as well and said it was the best thing there). The floors are sawdust, and coffee, if you drink it , is only 10 cents. The only down side was the limited parking around meal times. Would be my first stop when back.
If you want to experience a movie studio, I highly recommend skipping universal, and heading instead to Warner Bros. They lead their tours in small 8-12 person groups, and as such require reservations. The little extra planning is well worth it in the end. This is a real working movie lot, not a theme park made to look it.
We also signed up to attend a taping of the tonight show. Again, advanced reservations required, and is free so get there early as the tickets are over sold for each show to make sure they get a packed house.  We scored tickets to the "Tonight Show" which was awesome, this was done online, and was free, but months in advance.  So here is the deal with the tickets.  They give out say 250.  There is only room for 200 in the soundstage.  Then on top of that, they give a certain number to friends and family of guests.  So get there early.  We were among the last folks in and missed a lot of the "pre show" where Jay does Q&A and the like.  We showed about 2 hours early, and that was BARELY enough.  So do the right thing and get there EARLY.  We hit an in and out burger while in town, its a so-cal chain that has pretty decent food.  Rather famous place mentioned in a lot of movies and shows,,,,I am holding out for a nationwide expansion, but then again I was sure they would go national when I was there at age 12.  
Unfortunately we didnt get to catch a Dodgers game, as they were out of town....But that left the door open for a Dodger Stadium Tour.  Pretty decent, they let you go down on the field and sit in the owners seats right behind the plate.  Tour if the visiting clubhouse and umpire room, press box and skyboxes, etc.  
Neat tour, and was only $8 a ticket, so if cant catch a game, at least a viable alternative.

My tips and advice: the area around the airport is not that nice, by the airport I mean LAX.  Inglewood is right next door and is the same one from the 90's raps you may remember. The hotels close to the airport are all locked up in fences and not a lot in the area to walk to.  So if you have to stay in the area, its fine, there are all the chains, my personal favorite, if not a person who always does chains, is the Hacienda. hotel.  Reasonable rates, shuttle from the airport, same day laundry and dry cleaning service. 
The Spruce Goose is no longer in the hanger out in Long Beach near the Queen Mary, they do have the scorpion sub, and the Queen Mary is still there, but be wary of the trek through long beach, it may be home to snoop dogg and dr. dre, but there are some bad spots.  So if you are worried at all - swing through during the day.  Huntington beach and Seal Beach are close by ( to long beach), and worth stops if into volleyball / surfing etc.
There are a bevy of airports around town, LAX (close to downtown and Santa Monica, Beverly Hills and is just south of Venice Beach), Bob Hope ( up north by Tonight show, NBC Studios, and WB studios in Burbank.  Also Universal Studios and Magic Mountain are close by.  Long Beach down south near Huntington Beach. Disney Land and Knots Berry Farm are close as well ( so is downtown)  Out East is Ontario airport, near Rancho Cucamonga. John Wayne airport is a little southeast, and is also nice if heading to Disney or the southern beaches, as is a little larger than Long Beach, and in a little nicer part of town.
Traffic is as bad as you've heard.  Most all the time, for no reason.  So leave extra time for transit time, you will probably need it.
The Drive down Pacific Coast Highway is awesome.  I love the drive from Santa Monica up Past Zuma Beach to Malibu.  If you get a chance give it a shot, cliffs to your right, beach and ocean to your left.  Especially nice around sunset.  The surfers at Zuma are fun to watch.
Cabs aren't nearly as plentiful as in Chicago or New York.  Further, things are spread out, way out.  Disney to Universal isn't like in Orlando ( a $40 cab ride and 20 minutes) is closer to 40 miles and probably around 90-100 minutes.  Most folks in California drive, as the layout is just not conducive to public transportation or even cabs.  
  

Best of Cities - Minneapolis, Cincinnatti

I haven't been too many places - but the ones I have been to I have been fortunate enough to get to try some of the local bests - here are a few of the places I've dropped in on, and spots we hit, some awesome, others, well, left something to be desired.
Headed into town


Minneapolis - Home of the Juicy Lucy - there is a long standing debate as to who invented, and who has the best,,, heck - it even made it on to man vs. food.  Back up a step - what is a Juicy Lucy you ask??? - its a cheeseburger, with the cheese in the middle of the meat.  Awesome idea, but do yourself a favor, wait a minute or two to bite in, that cheese comes out like raging lava!
Matts Bar and The 5-8 club have them, both claim to be the best, and both say they invented it.  As for me,
Riverfront at old mill park
I stopped in at The 5-8 club while I was in town - and it was pretty decent.  Nothing to write home about, but glad I tried it.  There is a really awesome downtown scene in Minneapolis.  Most of the buildings are interconnected by a series of elevated, enclosed  walkways, ala gerbil cage.  This makes walking from spot to spot in the dead of winter more reasonable, but pretty confusing if you don't know where you are going. Some of the connectors drop you into the middle of stores etc.
The riverfront downtown has a great park at the old mill and locks.  I only saw in January, and couldn't stand to stay out too long, but hope to return one day in the summer to check out.
Accidentally happened across the site where the I-35 bridge collapsed a few years back.  If you dont know the story - google it, pretty horrible.  It wasnt until a guy at work mentioned it that I was aware of or remembered the tradgedy.  This new beautiful bridge now spans the (not so mighty in these parts) Mississippi River.
The Twins have a new open air stadium, right down town.  The t-wolves, vikings, and twins are all within a couple miles of one another, and all in the downtown area.  An amazing job of urban planning.  On top of that Minneapolis is one of the cleanest urban environments I have ever seen.  You see Minneapolis tops on lot of top places to live, most highly educated, up and coming lists, even as cold as the winters are, and for good reason!  Great mid size city that is on the way up, with a good size airport to get in / out of town with relative ease.

Cincinnati - Harry Caray used to always talk about Skyline Chili.  So of course had to stop and get some.  Its not bad chili, but they serve it all sorts of strange ways.  You can get 3 way - chili, cheese, and onions, four way adds beans, and five way adds spaghetti.  I stuck with the three way and added beans - no onions.  Then had a couple of chili dogs.  A couple sounds like a lot, but they are the white castle of hot dogs,, tiny little things, almost cute. 
Graeters Ice cream is some of the best I have come across.  The black cherry chip and black raspberry chip is what they are known for, and it is amazing.  I got in a shake, as was driving to airport.  Probably the best shake I have ever had. 
Cincy has a new downtown ball park as well, again I was there in the dead of winter so will have to head back to catch a game one of these days.  I have heard great things about the Pete Rose Garden and the overall beauty of the park.  Again - right on the river, nestled into the down town business district.  Fountain square - right in the middle of downtown - is a great area to catch if you have a few moments.  Would be a great place to just sit and have lunch.  Ice Skating in the winter, concerts in the summer.  Reminded me of a much smaller version of Chicago's Millennium Park.

Just adjacent to the ballpark is John A Roebling Bridge - first opened in 1866, and remarkably, still in operation.

It traverses the Ohio River, connecting Ohio and Kentucky. It appears to be a little brother of the Brooklyn Bridge, and if you thought that too, you just got extra credit, as John Roebling also designed the Bridge connecting two of New York City's more prominent boroughs, Manhattan and Brooklyn.  The Cincinnati version is much smaller, and handles far less traffic, but is just as beautiful, especially at night.  I made it a point to go out of my way to drive over it a couple of times.



So there you have it, not a whole lot of time in either place, but if you find yourself there for an afternoon, at least you have a couple of recommendations.

   

Monday, March 26, 2012

Day 6 - Las Vegas to The Pacific!


I think it was the excitement that got me up early, well early for having been up till 3 or so.  9 am and I was ready to go.  Problem is I wasnt quite ready to leave.  I had to see this shark tank pool deal.
Worlds Largest Thermometer
Pools in Vegas have become hot spots during the day.
 Rehab and all have spawned a whole new way for Casino Owners to draw in folks.  The Golden Nugget had a DJ out spinning at 10 AM.  Carrie and I couldnt have cared less about the music and bodies, it was all about the water slide and shark tank. I will do my best to paint the picture.  Imagine a pool, a really big one.  now imagine that smack dab in the middle is a HUGE aquarium made of glass.  




Inside are sharks, coral, fish and rays, swiming around freely.  It is freaky as hell to see a shark coming right at you, glass or no glass, while you are swimming in a pool.  Now imagine a water slide that goes right through the shark tank and spits you out at the bottom.  Pretty sweet, right??  We were the only people on the slide, and must have ridden it down 12 times each.  Did I mention that there was an elevator to get up to the top of the slide??  ooh I didnt, well, there was an elevator to get up to the top of the slide.  We later found out it was for the employees to deliver food and drink from the upper area where the bars were to the pool deck.  By later I mean on our last trip down when we were asked why we were in the elevator at all.  I thought the soaking wet floor was answer enough, but suffice it to say that was our que to get back up to the room and hit the road.  
There was a stop that I knew we were not going to be able to make, well two actually.  They were places I had almost driven out to while in college just to do, but thought the better of.  Area 51 and Roswell New Mexico.  It was Fox Mulder who got me interested.  Well - honestly the aliens thing was interesting to me way before that, but I think I got really intrested when X-Files came around.  I used to watch it every week, and then even the re-runs that they showed late at night.  I was slightly saddened that I wouldnt be able to get down to the crash site at Roswell, or the base at Area 51.  I was disappointed to read that the government had closed off the two most common area 51 viewing areas.  I just couldnt fathom driving 8 hours to see a black mailbox.
Didnt see anyone arguing with her!!
Say what you will, but there is something rather intriguing about an area closed off so tightly, and with a security perimeter 10 miles out.  Not to mention the unmarked aircraft that fly back and forth from Vegas Daily shuttling the workers to and from work each day.  There is just too much strange not to think that if there were something, somewhere, that it might as well be there.  
Alas the closest we would come on our journey is this alien jerky stand - which was awesomely decorated I might add.  We stopped in and got some alien jerky and browsed the store. 

Calico Ghost Town

This was to be our last stop before hitting California, and the Mojave Desert.  The desert was beautiful and I remember thinking that it would be a neat place to take a short hike, just to say you had done it.  It was strange to be on the freeway through the desert, so we bounced off it and decided to take some of the old road through - which we had apparently joined back up with .  We saw the worlds largest thermometer, another check on our seemingly ever growing list of "worlds largest" things. 
Calico Ghost town I looked like a neat stop, and we decided to get off and check it out.  An old abandoned gold rush town, seemed like a neat stop as that was what drove folks west in the first place. 
We hopped back on the old road on our trek to LA. 

The route 66 books I had read said numerous times, that if you were in doubt of if you were on route 66 or not, look for the railroad tracks and the old telephone lines.  I couldnt help but think that the picture below was about as good a proof as I would imagine you could possibly get. 


Route 66 - right next to the tracks in California

The Old Road throuch California

Not a beer can dinosaur, but a beer can forest!!

We were heading west, and it wouldnt be long before our date with destiny.  We had already covered around 3000 miles and at this point I was starting to be ready to be out of the car. 
Apparently there were still a few neat stops to be made.  We happened across this beer bottle forest somewhere out near Victorville California.  I decided to grab a few shots of it before heading back on our way.  Apparently this goes for art out on the open road, and let me tell you, there wasnt much to see, so I cant say that I dont agree. 


Worlds first McDonalds

It was rather ironic I thought that we started our journey near Des Plaines Illinois, and were about to end it near San Bernadino California.  The interesting thing is that these are the respective homes of the McDonalds empire that we know today.  It was not all that long ago that the McDonalds Family had this one location in California.  A Milkshake salesman took the idea and franchised the store in Illinois, known as store #1.  The ironic thing is that the chain food establishments and big box stores are primarily responsible for the demise of so many a Route 66 ventures.  They book end the road.  It was strange to be in the store, it was nothing like the places that exist now.  it looked like a museum, a crappy one at that.  But then it made you realize that it was just a regular place.  It didnt start as the big evil empire it is today.    

Regardless - there were plenty of great places to
Carrie and I going down into the mine at Calico.
eat that werent fast food.  Of course we had found our fair share.  Upon striking out in amarillo texas - we happened upon a whataburger - and as Carrie had never had one, we gave it a shot.  On our way though California, we dropped in at the first Del Taco, where you can get a side of fries with your tacos.  It was interesting enough to stop and give a shot, as we had to be motoring on.  Driving through LA was going to be a chore, and I knew it.  We had a date with the pacific, and I'll be darned if we werent going to get there before sunset.
Thats one thing I missed about living in New Buffalo, and even Fort Myers, both on the west coast.  Chicago and Southeastern Florida definitely have a lot going on, but no sunsets.  Carrie will argue that there are still sunsets, and I suppose technically she is right, but not at a beach, into the water.  That is a sunset to me, and we hadent even hit the city limits of LA yet and the sun was starting to hand a little low in the sky. 

We were heading west into los angeles, and happened across the town my grandparents used to live in when I was a kid.  Upland California.  We spend every summer vacation out there for as far back as I could remember.  The cousins would come over, we had a great time.  We used to make my Dad take us up to the top of Mt. Baldie and go hiking.  That all came to a screaching hault when my brother let it out of the bag that we came across a rattle snake.  Mom flipped out and it was back to whiffel ball in the back yard after that.
There was a neat statue that was in Upland, the westernmost edition of the Madonna of the Trail series of statues.  They extend across the country on famous trails and roadways.  This one was dedicated in 1929 and has stood on route 66 ever since, watching over the westward travelers.  We had made is safely after all,
3200 and some odd miles and we were so close we could smell it.   
We still had the bulk of Los Angeles proper to trek through.

The Route headding into Santa Monica
There is a lot said about traffic in LA.  As far as I could tell it was worse that true.  There were cars everywhere.  We got on the freeway to try and shave off a few minutes, in a last ditch attempt to get ourselves to Santa Monica before sunset.  It was past rush hour, and we were at a complete standstill.  It was traffic as if there was an accident or something anywhere else on the planet.  The difference was there was never an accident, and it didnt matter if you were comming or going to town, it was absolutely slammed every time we got on it.  Burbank, Beverly Hills, Culver City, it simply didnt matter.  I remember thinking to myself that I wondered where they filmed all those episodes of CHIPS and where the hell OJ found all that open road.  It was baffling to me.  Either way - we hopped off the highway and decided that we would be better back on the old road and thought it prudent to make the last 10 miles down the old route.

 We headed south, then west and made it to Santa Monica, with little time to spare.  The king palms flanking the street on either side.  It just felt like we were getting close.  Around a corner, through the town, the anticipation was somehow exciting and bitter at the same time.  We had come so far, 9 states, the worlds biggest fork, the grand canyon, the St. Louis Arch, Sean and Lindsays wedding.  We had crammed so much into so few days.  You couldnt help but feel a little nostalgic about the trip.
The ocean came into view and the neon from the fishing pier sign began to come into appear between the trucks in front of us. 

We made our way across the intersection and through the archway of the pier.  We drove down the pier as far as we could go and walked out over the ocean.  We had made it.  Lake Michigan to the Pacific, and actually the atlantic ocean back in Florida before we left.  It had truely been a journey.
There was a bit of a nagging feeling that I couldnt shake however.  Remember earlier when Carrie read that the real end of Route 66 wasnt the Santa Monica Pier??  Well, we had to go find it, the plaque that was placed in the park a few blocks down.  It was a little smaller than I had figured, but we had fount it.  Carrie seemed vindicated as it did indeed read that the end of the route was there.  It used to be the end of the route before it was re-routed.  Either way we had now officially made our way to both points.  I was so elated that I decided to get a

picture laying on the marker.  It was about that time that I realized that the marker acted as a sort of community bathroom for the area homeless, and boy was there quite a contingency of them.  It wreaked of unine.  I immediately removed the sweatshirt, which was one of my favorites, and it hasent been worn since.  That said it was a casualty of the trip, and if I had to do it again, I might just do it again,,,, I just would have changed first.  
About that sunset.... We got there just in time to catch it, and it was amazing. 
I am not gonna lie, it was a bit of a relief to know that we did not have to get back in the car and drive 500 miles again, we were going to stick around LA for a few days, see some friends, see some sights, and relax before heading back home.  9 states, 3200 miles, and a 1200 mile journey to the starting line.  I was left with a sense of fulfilment, and a sense that I'd love to do it again, maybe in an RV, with a family, some day.  See some of the sights that we had skipped. 
Was I insane, or had the old road sunken its claws into me??  Either way it was a great trip, and I found it hard to leave the pier for the night to head to the hotel.  The great roadtrip, quite possible the greatest roadtrip, was now in our rearview mirror.