I know.... I know... you looked at the map and figured out that Las Vegas isn't exactly on route 66. But there had been so many old movies and there was the "old town" part - I decided it should be part of our trip. I imagine that many a westward traveler made the same stop along the way. We decided that the only rule was that it had to be one of the old places up near Downtown that we stayed at. One that we could have stayed at if it were 50 years ago, none of the famous new fangled "Strip" glitzy glam places. No-sir, no modern lazer light show, tigers or fountains for us. We were on a journey into the past! We stayed in a gal darned teepee the night before for goodness sake!!!
Wigwam #11 - our home for the night. |
Not exactly a beer can dinosaur - but close enough. |
On our way we went, as there were a bunch of places we were going to hit that day, and a bunch of others that we would have to skip unfortunately. I had wanted to see a free roaming Bison on our trip - and the fact that we were leaving the plains states for the desert had me convinced that we needed to head to a sanctuary to find them. Additionally, we had passed a few "must do" stops the night before on our mission to get to the hotel. It was dark and raining, and unfortunately we just didn't have the time to head back. It was going to be a half a day out of our way to the bison sanctuary, and it was 120 square miles, so our odds weren't that great.
On top of that we had already decided to skip the petrified forest and painted desert ( hey - have to leave some stuff for the NEXT time we do the trip right?) and headed instead west instead - towards Meteor Crater. Anyone who has flown into Los Angeles has probably flown over Meteor Crater, just as I had- but I cant imagine many have actually been down to it. It had been on my list of places to explore since my first trip flying west - well first one I remember anyway, when I was 5. Its pretty huge from 40,000 feet so I was rather intrigued as to how it would appear up close and personal. Come to find out that they even did some moon mission training down at the center of the crater. Apparently the folks at NASA figured that this was about as close as they would get to lunar surface - if you look really close at the second picture you can still see the remnance of the "mission." It was great to finally
Ruins near Meteor Crater |
see the crater, they have a guided tour around the rim, but it was 2-1/2 hours so we decided to skip as we had a lot to cram in that day. So onward we trekked, back into the car and westward bound. Low and behold, all of the sudden a radio advertisment for "the greatest zoo in the west" came on "Bear-a-zona" it was called. And wouldnt you know it, they had free roaming buffalo.
SOLD! Yeah I had imagined a bison on a hill eating grass, but this would do, and we were GUARANTEED to see one to boot. It was on the way to the Meteor Crater, and would work just fine. We jumped off the expressway and hit the old route for a little while - for a famous stop - the "Here it is" sign - at the Jackrabbit trading post. Funny to get that excited over a sign, but it was one that I had seen on the cover of so many Route 66 books and videos - that it kind of felt like we had found one of the originals, and that was because we had. The signs and establishments are vanishing at an astinishing rate, even the books I had read were comming out with new revised editions to update the new and recently closed establishments. The recession had been hitting them hard. And with gas prices in the $3 a gallon range, I would imagine that there were far fewer road trip vacations than in previous years.
In addition to those that were mentioned as now closed in the books, we had found 3 or 4 ourselves thus far that were no longer operating even since the updates. So this was kind of a big deal, and I am glad we stopped, if even just to see the sign. Bear-a-zona was next on the list - well actually it was never was on the list- it just sort of plopped in our laps. Alas there were free roaming Bison - and we werent going to miss it!!!
It turns out that "Bear-a-zona" was only a few miles off the route, and was pretty reasonably priced. They saved the bison for the end, and we saw a few bears along the way. Of particular interest was this little guy who seemed to be watching me out of the corner of his eye the whole time we were there. They had quite a set up - was a sort of drive through zoo where the animals have free reign. It was pretty cool - minus the fact that the Bison seemed to have absolutely no interest in doing anything but laying under the trees. We did see a couple white bison - which are considered sacred by many native american indian tribes. I have to admit I had no idea that there was such a thing as a white bison, and apparently they are not all that common, especially these days, as bison as a whole were nearly hunted to extinction. They have made a slight comeback - but nothing along the lines of the dominance they once exuded over the planes. Will have to make the trek out to Yellowstone in the future for the a shot at seeing a herd. Hopefully not too distant in the future. We drove through the zoo twice, as they
sell you a day of unlimited access as their least expensive option. Was cool to see the animals roaming free and coming right up to the car, well except the buffalo, whom seemed rather content over in the corner of the "pen".
We hit the bathroom - and then it was on to the - for me any way - highlight of the trip - or so I had hoped. My good friend Nick always spoke highly of forign lands - Europe, New Zeland and Australia, - and I always retorted, " dude I havent even been to the grand canyon yet - why would I travel to another continent if I havent even explored this one yet." Much to Nicks delight - I was about to end that argument, or at least have to come up with another one.
Hermits Rest |
The Grand Canyon isnt exactly on the main drag of route 66 - but again - this wasnt meant to be a traditional route 66 vacation - we were exploring the country. I had read a decent amount on the grand canyon - as I had been excited to go for quite some time. There were so many choices, the national park, the reservation with the glass bottom walkway, the north rim, a nights stay down at the phantom ranch, river tours, helicopter tours, etc. We had tried to cram so much into the day that I was starting to get scared that we hadent left enough time to properly explore the canyon, so I wanted to make the most of it.
There was a larger than I thought line to get into the park. I say larger that I thought as I have absolutely no base for comparison. I was starting to sweat - were we going to have to spend the night here and skip vegas?? It would toss my carefully planned vacation into turmoil. Had I gotten cocky in thinking I could jam so much into a day?? We had been successful thus far, but this was the biggest attraction of our trip, both literally and figuratively. We were finally in the park - and I had the map open plotting my course.
The general concensus among the folks I had messaged back and forth was forget the "main overlook" and head straight to Hermits Rest. Suprisingly at the fork in the road where we needed to turn - it opened right up for us. Apparently there was a bus ride involved and a decent hike that most didnt want to take. At this point not only did I need a bit of a short cut - but if I didnt have to deal with hordes of people it would be more than just an added bonus. Those of you that have spent any prolonged period of time in a car with me, know that I am less than patient with people. Heck - if you have ever met me you probably know that, but anyway, it looked as though the sun was going to shine on our big day.
My first canyon view |
Parked the car and walked the 1/4 mile to the bus station that would take us out to hermits rest. The first picture was of my first look into the canyon. Honestly it is my favorite. One of those monents and pictures that is enblazoned into my minds eye. I think I just sat there and stared for a moment, and I am pretty sure we even missed a bus. It looks like a beautiful painting hanging in front of you. There really arent words that can describe it. So massive, so many colors. It was total optical overload. Lucky for me the camea did a pretty good job of capturing the moment, I think anyway.
The bus ride to hermits rest was one of the most beautiful I had ever taken. That said, it seemed to take forever. I'm sure it was only 20 minutes, but the stops, one after another - I was getting stir crazy. Luckily people were getting off at many of the stops - so our mostly full bus was hardly a third of the way full when we wound up at our destination. We headed past the herds out on a trail to the back of the buildings. Hermits rest has been on the site welcoming visitors to the head of the Hermit Trail since folks were traveling by horse drawn carraige. Who was I to argue with nearly 100 years of history. The view was marvelous. We spent a couple of hours there looking around. Unfortunately we did not have time to hike down the canyon, but we did make our was a couple of hundred feet down the trail just to get the feeling that we were " in " the canyon.
Colorado River |
On the way back to the car we decided to get off at a couple of the stops. All were specific points where you could either see the river, or a particularly interesting view or rock formation.
The interesting part - for me anyway - was that there wasnt nearly as much railing as I feared there would be. I couldnt help myself - and Carrie got a pretty decent picture of me with the video camera out on the edge of the canyon. It was pretty amazing.
Hoover Dam at night. |
Content with our canyon stop, I wished we had more time to stay, I really wanted to hike down the canyon, and wanted to see more. Alas, it struck just about then that we still had 300 miles or so to go on our way to Las Vegas, our stop for the night. It was back to the car and on our way. We drove and drove and drove. there werent too many stops as it looked as it was going to be about midnight when we pulled in as it currently stood. This was with the loss of an hour of sleep as we had lost a time zone.
It was a suprise to say the least when we found ourselves at the Hoover Dam. I knew it was outside Vegas, as I had seen numerous tours offered from hotels on previous stays, but had never made my way out to see it. What a pleasant suprise. It was the 11 at night and we had come across a fantastic site, completely without planning. That was one of my favorite moments of the whole deal. I took the access road over the dam - as I thought it might be neat. What I didnt figure is that they'd let us drive right across the dam! How cool. It was night and I couldnt see a whole lot, it was rather impressive even then.
As we came off the dam and wound our way around the mountains, it was obvious that something amazing was up ahead, as the halo of the lights came into view above the mountains. It was time to pick a place to stay. I handed over the reigns to Carrie and she drove the remainder of the way into sin city.
I was so amped about the day, and that we had made Vegas for our nights stay, albeit later than I would have liked.
That was one of the plans for our trip. There was plenty of night driving to be done, but fitting it in to portions of the journey where there werent things we wanted to see was the real trick. We could have made the grand canyon at 10 at night, when it wasnt open and couldnt see it, and that wouldnt have done much good. Vegas on the otherhand, looks more beautiful, and heck, even more normal at night. Under the lights, thats how vegas was meant to be seen. Speaking of things that were meant to be seen, the Welcome To Las Vegas sign that you see on every roadtrip to vegas montage ever caught on film. We found it, and again, great success.
We decided on the Golden Nugget Hotel / Casino - it was in the old downtown area, and was one of the famous signs I remember seeing in those old 50's and 60's movies my dad used to watch on sunday afternoon before the Cubs games. Little did I know it had undergone a complete overhaul / rennovation. There was a shark tank pool complete with a water slide, night club, and of course, a huge buffett. $49 for a two bedroom suite - SOLD!! The room was magnificent, and I would highly reccomend hitting Vegas on a Tuesday night if you ever go.
The rates are phenomenal!!
One more deal that I had thought had died in vegas, the $5 bet and free drinks. Both are alive and well in the older downtown Freemont Street casinos. It was late, but we found some $3.99 prime rib and even managed to win $90 at the roulette table. It was indeed, a good day. About 2:30am and it was time for bed. Tomorrow was to be our grand finale and we needed to get a good nights sleep.
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